DIY Full Length Mirror

This mirror project was a lot of fun.

Remember that with this method you cut the frame to fit the mirror, not the other way around.

I recommend getting your mirror before starting the project.

We hope you enjoy watching this video about How to Make a Full-Length Mirror

Source: Modern Builds

Materials and Supplies

  • 2 - 8ft 1x3's
  • 1 1/4" PVC electrical conduit (outside diameter is 1 5/8")
  • White Spray Paint
  • Wood Glue (optional)
  • Screws
  • 1/4" Dowel

Project Step by Step

I started by cutting my side pieces on the miter saw. Make the sides exactly the same length as the mirror.

Next, I used my table saw to create a die in the center of the side pieces. That is where the mirror will stay.

I secured the top and bottom pieces to the sides with pocket screws.

I used a 1/4 "bit to drive the screws under the board surface so I could connect them with a dowel later.

I used a 1 5/8 "Forstner bit to drill a hole and a recess in the bottom pieces.

To make sure everything was lined up correctly, I used the first piece as a template for the second, being careful not to completely pierce the bottom of the frame.

Making the legs was a simple process.

I set my miter saw to cut a 5-degree bevel on the soles of the feet so they are on the floor when the mirror is against the wall.

Then I covered the legs with a piece of wood that I cut with a bandsaw.

This is optional, it just provides a little extra glue surface. I washed the disc sander plugs.

Assembling the base was a pretty simple process, I was just constantly checking to make sure everything was correct.

I scored 2 "from the top of the leg to show me how far the floating piece should sit.

As soon as I knew everything clicked, I removed the bottom of the frame and painted the bracket white.

I used 5-minute epoxy to secure the legs to the frame.

Two coats of Minwax polycrylic satin were added.

After installing the mirror, I screwed the top of the frame to lock it.

The plugs are not glued, so if I need to remove the mirror, I can unscrew the cap and replace it.

I used a 1/4 "mirror panel, it is stiff enough and I don't need a solid back panel.

If you use something thinner, use a full plywood back panel.

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Images and project courtesy of Modern Builds


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