How to Build a Window Seat

A window seat is that extra touch that makes your home a true home. With your cozy new hanger, you will enjoy reading, chatting with a friend or sunbathing. Cover the window seat with a cushion for extra comfort and add fun pillows. On the functional side, this DIY window seat comes with over 6 cubic feet of built-in storage space.

Discover How to Make for Yourself this Amazing Window Seat!

Your window seat will look professionally flawless due to a secret: pre-made wall cabinets. Available to order or in stock at many home centers, wall cabinets do this job primarily with assembly rather than putting them together from scratch. This allows you to spend more time painting the window seat, putting on fancy cabinet handles, and adding a seat cushion.

With a wood top suitable for painting in any color of your choice, this window seat will be 60 inches wide, 18-1 / 2 inches high, and 15 inches deep.

What Are You Going to Need


  • Electric miter saw
  • Cordless drill
  • Drills and Drills with Driver
  • Cordless electric nail
  • Circular saw
  • Goat leg
  • Measuring tape
  • Hammer
  • Speed ​​square
  • Carpenter's pencil
  • Beam finder
  • Brush
  • Sandpaper
  • Tack cloth


  • 2 wall cabinets, each 30 inches wide by 15 inches tall
  • 1 finish plate, 3-1 / 2 inches by 96 inches
  • 3 two-by-four, each 96 inches long
  • 1 sheet of hardwood plywood 3/4 inch thick by 4 feet by 8 feet
  • 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch, quarter turn, 96 inches long
  • 3 Inch Stainless Steel Common Nails
  • Phillips #10 wood screws in four lengths: 1/2 in., 1 in., 2 in. And 3 inches.
  • Washers
  • Carpenter's glue
  • Primer
  • Interior painting


The basic component of your DIY window seat is the standard 30-inch wide by 15-inch tall wall cabinet. Its 30-inch width means you can use a unit for narrow windows or fold it for wider windows. At 15 inches tall, it will reach the same height as most chair seats when combined with its 3-1/2-inch tall base. Although 12 inches is not deep enough for a comfortable seat, this will be fixed by pulling the cabinet 3 inches forward and covering the rear section with a cantilevered plywood seat base. Be sure to buy hardwood plywood, a type of furniture plywood covered with a fine varnish-like birch.

1. Choose an area for the window seat

You probably already have an ideal window seat location in mind. Make sure it is at least 60 inches wide and that the bottom of the window rises at least 20 inches above floor level. Also, be sure not to place the window seat over an HVAC vent or in front of a baseboard heater.

2. Remove cabinet doors and shelves

Remove the cabinet doors and shelves, as this brightens the cabinet. Leave the hinges in the closet. Put doors, shelves and screws aside securely.

3. Remove the skirting board and obstructions

Pull gently on the skirting boards with the lever. Remove other wall and floor obstructions such as door trims, door jambs, and floor transitions that will be unnecessary after window seat installation.

4. Build the base of the window seat

The heart of the window seat is its two-by-four frame. Cut two two-by-four that is 60 inches long each. With the scrap material, cut five 12-inch boards. Place the five 12-inch boards perpendicularly between the two 60-inch boards: one at each end, one in the center (30 inches on the center), and the remaining two boards between the other boards (15 inches on the center). Nail the frame, checking the square frequently with Speed ​​Square.

5. Attach the window seat base to the wall

Position the window seat base in front of the window so that the back of the frame touches the wall. Locate three wall studs with the stud finder. Drill pre-drilled holes inside the base frame at each stud location, then secure the base frame to the wall with 3-inch screws and washers.

6. Attach the wall cabinets to the base

Using the cordless drill and 1-inch screws, secure the wall cabinets to the base frame. The cabinets must first be fastened laterally with 2-inch screws. Then secure the matched cabinets to the frame, advancing 9/16 inches to allow flush insertion of the trim plate underneath like a kick to the foot.

7. Attach the toe-kick trim

Cut the finished plate to 60 inches on the miter saw. Place the finished plate in front of the base frame as a standing kick. Using the cordless electric nail, secure the tip with six to seven finish nails.

8. Cut the seat to the correct size

Using a circular saw, cut the 60-inch by 30-1 / 2-inch sheet of plywood.

9.Attach seat

Rest the seat on the cabinets, with the factory-finished edge facing out. The back should almost touch the wall, with only a small 1/8-inch gap. Using the cordless drill, drive 1/2-inch screws up through the ceiling of the cabinets and into the plywood of the seat. Make sure the screws go into the plywood but not into the top of the wood. Secure with eight screws.

10. Attach the fourth round

Using the miter saw, cut the square edge to 60 inches long. Run a thin bead of carpenter's glue along the front edge of the window seat. Secure the quarter circle to this edge with fine finishing nails. Take care to quickly clean up any carpenter's glue leaks.

11. Sand and paint the window seat

Lightly sand with fine-grit sandpaper No. 220, in particular the joint between the wheel and the seat to remove small lips or to sand dry glue. Prime all surfaces, allow to dry for at least two hours, then apply two coats of internal grade paint. Replace ports after all paint is dry.

We hope you enjoy watching this video about DIY Window Bench

Source: Avanti Morocha

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