How to Make a DIY Rustic Barn Door (Part 2)
Popular DIY Rustic Barndoor Hardware project complete with how to make your screws and hardware look like old hammered steel rivets.
Super cheap and easy DIY project for under $ 10 for the entire kit including the rail. No need to bend or weld any part of the parts. Even rustic hardware is optional and can only be painted black.
We hope you enjoy watching this video about DIY Rustic Barndoor Hardware Under $10
Source: Square Splinter
Continued Step by step project
Step 6: Make overlapping boards
We use 1x6 no. 2 cockroaches, we scrawled along the edges to make lap boards, split and stained to look like old barn wood. When choosing your boards, don't worry about knots, scratches, or grooves. But try to choose straight boards and not cup-shaped or warped.
- Divide the width of the door by the width of the plate to see how many plates you will need. Then adjust the width of the table until they are all the same.
Pro Tip: When doing the math, remember to take into account the edges of the overlap.
- For our 1.2m wide door, we cut each board 12cm wide. Yours may be different. Cut the planks to the correct width and cut the edges at two edges of all but two planks.
- Cut an insert into two boards to be used on the outer edges.
Pro Tip: We used a 3/8 in. drill bit to cut the clasps. A table saw with a dice blade will also work.
- We also cut the boards to the proper length before damaging them to make the ends look aged. At the same time, cut the two horizontal rails and the two 3-inch rails. Wide that go under the hooks. Make the horizontal rails two inches shorter than the width of the door.
Step 7: Separate the dishes with a shredder
Use a brush knot cup mounted on an angle grinder to sand the softwood and expose the grain. This gives the wood an aged look.
- Start by nailing the board to the sawhorses with finish nails to secure it in place. Nail holes will add to the rustic look.
- Tilt the grinder so the wheel is on the edge and parallel to the grain to abrade the softwood.
Pro Tip: Pieces of wire in the mug can break and cause serious injury if it's not protected and there is a lot of dust. Be sure to wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and a good quality dust mask.
- Use the wire wheel on the edges and ends of the board to create an uneven and worn look. You can also hold the wheel flat on the surface and arc it through the wood to look like saw marks. Do not worry; you can't go wrong here. It is okay to wear down any amount of wood.
Step 8: Make wormholes
If you want to take your anguish to the next level, use an awl to create "wormholes".
- Drag a screwdriver or other sharp object along the grain to create a false crack. Use your hammer claw or any other heavy tool or object to create dents and nicks.
Pro Tip: No need to drill holes in all boards. A little variety will add authenticity.
Step 9: Apply a coat of basic stain
- To get the look you see here, start by applying a base coat of light gold paint to the boards. Wipe off excess stain with a cloth.
Pro Tip: We apply the dye with a mini roller to speed up the process.
Step 10: Add a dark stain
- Use a cloth to apply an uneven layer of dark stain in a random pattern,
- Spread the spots to create dark areas and streaks. Wipe off excess with a different cloth to expose some of the base coat colors.
Step 11: Finish with gray coloring
- Apply a thin, uneven coat of gray tint, scrubbing, and rubbing to cover the aged look. Don't forget to finish the ends and edges of the boards.
Pro Tip: It will look better if the stain is less consistent. Also, don't worry if the finish is different from slab to slab. The variation will add an authentic look when the door is installed.
- Let the stain dry overnight before moving onto the door bracket.
Most brands of paint have colors that work well for aged wood. These are the colors we use:
Base layer: Varathane Summer Oak
Second layer: Varathane Kona
Third Layer: Gray Gradient Varathane
Step 12: Align the vertical slats
- Arrange the vertical boards in a pair of 2x4s laid flat on trestles or on the floor, and position the 2x4 boards so that they line up under the horizontal rail locations.
- Separate the top and bottom plates with pennies.
- Screw pieces of wood into the 2x4s on both sides of the door to hold the boards together while adding the horizontal rail. After verifying that the edges of the boards are still aligned, measure diagonally from opposite corners to make sure the door is square.
Pro Tip: If necessary, adjust the position of the plates until the diagonal measurements are equal.
Step 13: Attach the rails
- Mark the height of the rails on the door and secure with construction glue and nails.
- As the fasteners appear, we decided to use 1-1 / 2 in. head nails worked. Since the nails protruded slightly from the opposite side, we shortened them a bit, holding them with locking pliers and sharpening the ends on a bench grinder.
Pro Tip: You can also mount a metal grinding wheel on the angle grinder.
- Drill pilot holes for the nails that are near the ends of the rails to prevent splitting the wood. If you don't care about the appearance of the screw heads on the opposite side of the door, you can turn the door and drive 1-1 / 4 in. Screws through the plates on the rails for a little more strength.
Pro tip: if you prefer, you can apply a layer of smooth polyurethane. Test the finish on a chunk to see if you like it before applying it to your door. We did not finish our door.
Step 14: Mark the Hook Holes
- Follow the instructions included with the door hardware to install the hooks. After marking the screw locations, drill holes for the screws and mount the hooks to the door.
Step 15: Build the trail
The steps to follow to assemble the track will depend on the track support. If you have installed a continuous bracket between the studs or are mounting the rail to a header plate, then you may be using a pre-drilled rail and can proceed to bolt the rail to the wall.
- If you are mounting the rail to drywall and bolting it to the studs, you will need to locate and mark the studs and then transfer the stud locations to the rail so that you can drill the mounting screw holes in the correct place. The instructions should provide a formula for determining the height of the trail.
Pro tip: check your dimensions and math before riding the track. You don't want to have to cut the door or reposition the track if it's in the wrong place.
Step 16: Hang the DIY barn sliding door
With the rail mounted, finish the job by placing the door on the rail.
- Twist it carefully around each end to determine where to place the stops.
- Assemble the end stops, bottom guides, and any other hardware per your specific set of instructions.
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