How to Make a Wireless Charging Nightstand

A modern Nightstand with built-in wireless charging! Materials, Steps, and More for this project (DIY)

Things You May Need

  • Wireless charger
  • Standard bit
  • Self-centering dowel jig
  • Chinese ink
  • Satin spray lacquer
  • Hot glue gun

We hope you enjoy watching this video about Building a Wireless Charging Nightstand

Source: 3x3Custom - Tamar

Step by Step to Make a Wireless Charging Nightstand!

The first step is to glue the panel that will create the drawer box and bottom shelf. I used a 3/4 ”thick elm, you can use whatever wood you prefer.

Gluing the long panel and then cutting it to size will help achieve a fluid grain pattern.
Then I cut out all the parts of that panel.

I made sure to cut one side for the drawer box, then the top, and then the other side so that the grain pattern flows well.

As they are solid wood panels, it is best to take into account the movement of the wood when fixing them to the base, so I opted for masculine and feminine carpentry.

I used a slotted drill in the router table to make the tabs around the four sides of the top and bottom shelf of the drawer box.

This tongue is 1/4 ”thick and 3/8” deep.

Now is the fun part! The wireless charger!

I made an MDF mold using a 4 ”hole saw for the charger, a table saw for the cable, and a band saw for the part where the charger and cable meet. (Watch the full video for all the details on this.) You can also just cut it out with a puzzle.

I then used my dip router with a pattern drill along the jig to slowly guide it out of the charger pocket.

I was so scared to step over the table, but it ended up working perfectly!

I did some testing before routing this pocket and the 1/8 ”thickness worked great with the charger.

Since I don't have guide bushings for my router and I don't have a standard bit that will fit the slot I made for the cable on my model, I only used the router edge guide and a 1/4 ”router to make the slot for the wire.

This slot does not have to be as deep as the magazine pocket, only about 1/4 "deep or more.

Now is the time to get into the main drawer box!

I went into the box using pegs. To perfectly align the pins, I made a template for all the parts that will be joined on the face texture.

Next, I used a centrally located dowel jig on all the end parts of the grain.

The template I made for the holes in the face texture helped me align this perfectly.

Then I glued everything together with dowels!

I started with the bottom and finished with the top.

Then I cut all the material for the base. I used 5/4 lumber, which turned out to be 1-1 / 16 "thick when ground, so all the base pieces were 1-1 / 16" square.

You can use 2x2 for this or any other thickness you want.

I cut all the base pieces to size and slotted all the front and side pieces to accept the top and bottom shelf tabs.

Since the tabs I made were 1/4 ”thick, I was able to use a 1/4” straight drill on the router table.

I just needed to make sure they started 1/4 ”from the edge of the piece so that they lined up perfectly with the panels.

The tabs I made were 3/8 ”deep so I set the bit height a little higher than that to allow the wood to expand when the weather changes.

Since the material I used for the drawer box was 3/4 "thick and the base pieces were 1-1 / 16" thick, I needed to make a notch in the sides of the drawer box so that they Front and rear base pieces will fit together perfectly.

This was an afterthought so it could probably have been done before assembly, perhaps on the table saw or band saw.

To get the legs to line up with all the side pieces, I had to cut all the corners of the tabs on the top and bottom shelves.

He just had to be very careful not to cut into the surface of the table.

The drawer box is now ready, moving on to the base assembly!

I used tacos again. I couldn't drill the dowels in the center of the base pieces because they would be too close to the slots I cut earlier, so I made a marking gauge with a piece the same thickness as the material and a nail.

I drilled a hole in the scrap that was half the material distance from the top edge of the gauge and off the center of the side.

That way I could easily mark all my hole locations on all parts.

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