How to Make Shaker Cabinet Doors

Blender doors are a popular sight in kitchen and bathroom cabinets, as well as in laundry rooms, offices, and any room in the house that has cabinets.

With their clean lines and sharp shadows, Shaker doors project a warm classic feel with a modern feel. It's no wonder Shaker doors fit traditional and contemporary architectural styles alike.

It's also fortunate that Shaker cabinet doors are easy to build. If you can imagine a frame with a solid insert, you will have the basic idea of building the Shaker cabinet door.

The main tool you will need is a table saw and the only material you will need is plywood and one-by-three plywood.

We hope you enjoy watching this video about Steps to Easy DIY Shaker Cabinet Doors

Source: Woodworking With Wes

Discover Simple Steps to Build a Shaker Doors Like a Pro

Working Time: 45 mins
Total Time: 3 hrs
Yield: 1 Shaker-style cabinet door
Estimated cost: $25 to $50

Shaker Cabinet Door Fabrication Basics

The appearance of a Shaker cabinet door is that of a framed painting. However, the door frame of a Shaker box does not face the solid center panel. Instead, the panel is inserted into the center of this frame within the grooves.


The structure is built with four pieces of solid wood, one by three. The vertical pieces are called studs. The horizontal pieces run between the steps and are called rails.

If you are considering costs, you can use softwood such as pine, spruce, or fir. Softwoods are easier to cut, but not as durable in the long run. For a more solid construction, choose hardwood such as oak, maple, or birch. Hardwoods are harder to cut and more expensive, but they make a solid door.

Integrated panel

The shaker cabinet doors feature a 1/4 thick center panel. Choose any type of plywood or veneer panel as long as it is 1/4-inch thick. Factory-applied veneer over wood that matches the frame wood can be stained and coated or painted.


The shaker cabinet doors use press-fit joinery. A groove is a female groove in the wood; a tenon is a male projection on an adjacent plate that fits into the female slot. Joint and tenon joinery allows you to build cabinet doors without locks.

What are you going to need


  • Table saw
  • Bar clamps
  • Speed ​​square
  • Pencil
  • Straight edge or tape measure


  • One by three, 8 feet long
  • Sheet metal panel, 1/4-inch thick, 4 feet by 4 feet
  • Wood glue


1. Cut the studs and rails

Make two cuts to produce two studs, each measuring 23-1 / 2 inches. Cut two more boards, each 13-1 / 4, for the rails. These boards will form an enclosure door 23-1 / 2 inches high by 17-1 / 2 inches wide.

2. Add grooves (mortises) to studs and rails

Raise the height of the table saw blade to 3/8 inch above table level. Move the saw guide (or guide) until the blade is centered along with a piece of test wood. Therefore, for a 1-inch nominal thickness plate (3/4-inch actual dimension), the center point would be 0.375-inch.

Turn on the saw and run the test piece of wood to check the depth of the groove and that it is centered. If everything looks good, slot the two steps and the two rails (one side only).

3. Enlarge slot to insert panel thickness

Since a single saw blade is not 1/4-inch thick, it is necessary to adjust the saw guide and re-cut the struts and rails. Move the saw guide a little closer (about 1/16 in.). Run the test piece, flip the board, and run it a second time.

The intention is to equalize the cuts on both sides of the existing slot. Make sure the plywood recessed panel fits snugly into the slot. If it is too tight, slightly adjust the fence and cut again. When everything is correct, pass the steps and rails through the ridge.

4. Raise the spikes on the rails

Use a clamp to add a block of wood chips to the saw guide, about 1 inch away from the blade. Using a cabinet rail as a guide, lower the saw blade until it is just below the groove in the strut. Use Speed ​​Square to make a 3/8-inch mark on the end of each rail.

With one rail against the saw slide, cut all the material from each side of the rail to create a spike. Test that the tang fits into one of the slots on the style. Cut out the four accessories.

5. Determine the size of the inserted panel

Dry fit the posts and rails loosely so you can see the notches fit into the grooves. With your pencil, lightly mark the depth of the grooves at eight points (two in each corner). Measure the size of this rectangle with the ruler.

6. Cut the recessed panel

Transfer the marks from the previous step to the 1/4-inch panel. Cut the panel to the correct size on the table saw.

7. Fit and glue the closet door

Dry fit studs, rails, and recessed panel. If the pieces fit together, lightly glue the recessed panel recesses and edges and close the door permanently.

8. Secure the closet door

Apply bar clips to the door to hold it together while the glue dries. This should take about three hours.

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