Pegged Shoe Rack

Vertical shoe storage. This inexpensive, easy-to-build shoe rack can be easily customized to fit any shoe storage space or need. And it's much stronger than the plastics you'll find in most home storage stores.

In this "I can do it" column, we introduce the use of pins instead of hardware to hold the project together.

We hope you enjoy watching this video about Build a Shoe Rack

Source: The Wood Whisperer

This simple shelf uses no nails or screws and holds up to 15 pairs of shoes!

This simple shoe rack uses five 2 ″ x 2 ″ x 36 ″ pieces of poplar (which is actually a 1⁄2 ”square) for the vertical bars, feet, and rails; six 5⁄8 "x 48" poplar dowels for plates; and a 3⁄8 "x 48" poplar dowel for the pins.

A good lesson in working with studs is that not all studs are the same. Before you begin, measure the diameter of the pin and select the bit that matches the smallest. (Although I bought 5⁄8 "billets, three of them were closer to 9⁄16".)

First, cut the crossbars to the correct length. I settled on a 36 "extension, long enough to hold five pairs of women's dress shoes.

With six dowels to cut to the same length, measure and mark one, then install a stop block on the guide on the saw. Miter and cut each to 38. "

The additional 2 serve to seat the 1 dowels at both ends of the studs.

Stop block. I installed a butt lock on the miter saw guide with a cutting piece and a spring clamp. This saves a lot of time by not having to measure and mark each piece.

While on the miter saw, cut your two 12 "rails and two 5" rails, again, with a butt lock. Then draw a line on the right side of your fence at 21 × 2 "and cut 16 21 × 2" pins from the 3 × 8 "dowel (only 12 needed, but the extra is never bad).

Its place against the left side fence and cutting these short pieces from the right side of the blade keeps your hands away from the blade.

Once the pins are cut, slightly sink one end of each to make it easier to fit them into your Instead, an older pencil sharpener in its largest setting works well for this task.

The vertical bars are 36 ″ long, so no cuts are necessary.

Then align the two feet and secure them together to distribute the locations of the four vertical bars and pins to join them.

First, measure 2 ″ from each end and use a matching square to mark a line on both pieces; then measure 11⁄2 ”from these marks and draw another line on both pieces.

Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner of the resulting squares on each foot. I have examined the location (along the diagonal line) of each of the four 3⁄8 ”pegs that are inserted into each foot to seat at the lower ends of the vertical bars.

Now go to the vertical crossbar layout. Again, they must line up perfectly across the width.

Hold the two rear studs together and mark both simultaneously for the cross member locations 10 10, 20 ″, and 30 ″ above the bottom. Mark the center point at each location (3⁄4 ”from any edge).

The cross members on the front uprights are offset 11⁄2 ”down from those on the rear.

Attach one of the posts lengthwise (marked side up) securely to your coworker, put the appropriate drill in your drill, place a piece of tape 1 ″ from the tip of your drill to act as a depth stop, and drill a 1 ″ - deep hole at each vertically marked location, then repeat for each.

Drill straight. When drilling with your foot at the bottom of the vertical, keep the drilling level.

Then firmly position each foot to make holes that match the size of your pegs at the eight marked locations. Maintain your drilling level for this operation; you will use your foot as a template to drill the corresponding 1 ″ deep holes in the ends of the columns, and you need them to align them straight.

Now attach the two front pillars with their already drilled holes facing down and mark the location of the 3⁄8 "through holes at the top, 3⁄4" down from the top edge, and 3⁄4 "in on each side, then drill straight in.

This hole will be used as a template to drill the corresponding 1 ″ deep holes in the two top rails between the mullions as with the feet.

Now loosely clamp one of the rear pillars along with the Workmate lathe with the holes along the length facing up, leaving enough space at the bottom to align the foot with the design marks you made, and clamp everything securely. Wrap a 2 "piece of tape from the tip of the drill to mark the depth of the hole.

Use the holes in the legs as a guide to poke two 1" holes in the bottom of the column.

Before loosening this setting, glue the holes and insert the two pins with a mallet or mallet.

Try to seat the pins fully to get enough clamping force between the two pieces (if you have a piece of the pin sticking out, you can sand it later).

Attach the corresponding front stud (holes down) to the foot, drill the holes, and engage the pins. Do the same with the other side.

Final lineup. The last step is to hold the rails in place, drill, add glue, and secure the pins. You will need to support the rack against a solid surface while you insert the dowels; otherwise, the grille will move with each touch, and the pegs will not.

Time to add the dishes. Place one side-mounted on the floor, with the holes facing up, and place the dowels dry. Remember: some of your spreaders may be slightly larger than your holes, so you may need to file them to fit.

When all the pegs fit together, glue the holes and set the pegs with a hammer.

Now grab the assembly from the other side, glue it around the holes, and align the crossbars with their corresponding holes.

Once you have the side lined up, hammer the side down until the crossbars are seated; Let the glue dry. (If you have staples long enough, use them to hold everything together.)

Add the rails, using the holes in the columns as guides. After positioning the rails to tidy everything up, fix them firmly and drill the 1 ″ posts into the holes.

Support the rack against something solid so that you can swing the hammer with enough force to engage the pins and not just slide the rack across the ground with each hit.

Sand all surfaces (and all pins sticking out) before finishing. I used two coats of amber shellac, sanding with # 360 grit between coats.

However, shellac can be difficult to work with; dries very fast so it is difficult to maintain a wet edge and get an even coat. If I build another shoe rack, I'll probably succumb to the call of the spray paint or the spray lacquer siren.

Shoemaker Cut List with Pegs

  • 4 columns 1 1⁄2 x 1 1⁄2 x 36 Poplar
  • 2 ft. 1 1⁄2 x 1 1⁄2 x 12 Poplar
  • 2 rails 1 1⁄2 x 1 1⁄2 x 5 poplar
  • 6 x 58 dia. 38 pins
  • 12 3⁄8 dia. 2 pins

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