How to Caulk Shower And Bathtub Trim
Almost everyone understands the need to seal the long joints between the wall and the edges of a bathtub or shower sink, or along the rails of a shower door.
But often the small seams around the skid plates and the various rings or caps that hide the holes through which the pipes or the valves of the faucets pass through the wall are forgotten.
If these joints are not sealed, water can easily get behind them and into the wall. Wall water can mean mold growth, decay, and even seepage into the ceiling or the floor cavity under the shower or tub.
How to silicone a bath
The best seal to use in a shower is a 100% silicone seal designed for plumbing applications, typically sold as a bathtub and tile seal or as a kitchen and bathroom seal.
The silicone sealant has good adhesive properties and will not only seal the cracks but will also keep the moldings on the wall. It's not a bad idea to get a sealant that includes mold to help prevent mold discoloration, which is almost always present in bathrooms.
You'll also want to think about whether you want a colored or clear sealer, a decision that often depends on which sealer is used in the rest of the shower area.
What are you going to need?
Equipment tools:
- Clean rags
- Spatula (optional)
- Switchblade
Materials:
- Toilet cleaner
- 100 percent silicone caulking
Instructions
1. Clean surfaces
Thoroughly clean the area to be caulked with your favorite bathroom cleaner. Rinse the area and dry it with a clean cloth. Putty sticks best to a clean surface, so make sure the walls and finishes are completely clean and dry.
If you are replacing the old sealant, remove all the old sealant with the putty knife and clean the surface thoroughly.
2. Prepare the caulking tube
The secret to an elegant application is to cut the opening to the correct size at the applicator end of the caulking tube. The lower you cut the pipe, the larger the opening and the resulting caulking bead.
For trimming, a 1/4 to 3/8 inch cord is fine. To cut the applicator tip, remove the cap (as applicable) and use a sharp knife to cut the tip at a 45-degree angle. Some caulking pipes have end marks indicating where to cut for various sizes of the bead.
3. Apply putty
Place the applicator tip against the shower surface at a 45-degree angle. Apply a small, even layer of caulk around each part of the shower rim.
It is important to cover the entire seam as water can seep through even the smallest opening.
4. Shower and tub trim pieces to caulk include:
- Bathtub Spout
- Faucet handle shields
- Shower valve protectors
- Bathtub Drain Flush Plate
Caulking around the edge of the shower is optional, as this area is generally not prone to a lot of water penetration. You can judge for yourself.
5. Smooth the bead of putty
Immediately after application, use a damp finger (some people like to use a damp cloth or sponge) to smooth out each drop of putty. Using warm water works best. The goal is to leave a sleek little bead that still completely covers the gaps around the edge.
It is important to do this immediately; Silicone caulking takes a long time to dry completely, but can quickly become less spread.
The amount of caulking removed depends on personal preference. Some people like to do really big caulking lines, but small, thin beads tend to look better.
A fine line of sealant is just as effective as a large one, as long as there are no gaps. Note that a thicker caulking joint will attract attention, while a thin line will be less visible.
Allow the putty to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Silicone sealant generally needs to dry for 24 hours before it is ready to come in contact with water.
We hope you enjoy watching this video about how to silicone a bath:
Source: Home RenoVision DIY
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