How to Install a Shower Drain
Thinking about refreshing your bathroom? Installing the drain is one of those tasks that looks complicated but is totally manageable with a plan.
In this guide, you’ll learn the differences between compression vs. solvent-weld shower drains, what tools you actually need, and the exact sequence to install a shower drain that’s watertight and built to last.
Before You Start
Project time: 2–3 hours of hands-on work, plus cure time (often 24 hours)
Skill level: Beginner to intermediate DIY
Call a pro if: You’re moving the drain location, working with cast iron, unsure about pipe size, or local code requirements are unclear.
Safety, Code & Compatibility
Check local plumbing codes and verify trap and vent requirements.
Match materials: PVC-to-PVC or ABS-to-ABS (don’t mix).
Most showers require a 2-inch drain line for adequate flow. Conversions from tubs (often 1½") may need upsizing.
Tools & Materials You Really Need
Tools & Materials You Really NeedTools: Measuring tape, fine-tooth saw or plastic pipe cutter, deburring tool/utility knife, adjustable or channel-lock pliers, screwdriver, level, rags.
Materials: Shower drain kit (compression or solvent-weld), 100% silicone (bath/kitchen grade), plastic primer (if required), solvent cement (matching PVC or ABS), plumber’s putty only if your kit specifies it, denatured alcohol for cleanup, test plug.
Make Home Repairs a Breeze with These Reliable Tools!
- [Toolbox Included] - Includes 1-Drawer storage box with...
- [High Quality Material] - Made of high-quality steel and...
- [Muti-purpose Tools Kit] - 325Pcs tools set for most small...
- Material: Made of quality steel, sturdy construction,...
- Function: Specifically designed to clamp the square bolt...
- Angled Head: Angled plier head is easier to clamp terminal...
- 1：The laser level meter is equipped with 2 batteries,...
- 2: The laser level instrument has an automatic leveling...
- 3: To use the slash mode, please hold down the middle button...
Pro tip: Dry-fit everything first. A square, deburred cut makes sealing far more reliable.
Choose Your Drain Style
Compression Drains (Great Without Underside Access)
A compression shower drain seals to the vertical pipe using a rubber gasket and a compression nut. It’s ideal when you cannot reach the plumbing from below.
Solvent-Weld (Glued) Drains (Best When You Have Access)
A solvent-weld drain glues directly to the pipe. It’s permanent, strong, and preferred when you have access under the shower base to work and inspect.
Option 1 — Install a Compression-Style Shower Drain
Option 1 — Install a Compression-Style Shower DrainStep 1: Confirm Pipe Size & Height (Dry-Fit)
Verify you have a 2-inch shower drain pipe (common for showers).
Set the shower base in place to see where the pipe hits the drain opening. Mark the pipe so it finishes ¾–1 inch below the underside of the drain flange (follow your kit’s spec). Remove the base.
Step 2: Cut and Deburr
Cut the pipe square with a fine-tooth saw or pipe cutter.
Deburr inside and outside edges so the gasket can seal smoothly.
Step 3: Set the Drain in the Base
Apply a continuous bead of 100% silicone under the drain’s top flange (the surface that contacts the shower base).
Drop the drain body through the hole from above. From below (or through the opening if accessible), place the rubber sealing washer and friction washer, then thread on the lock nut. Tighten snugly with pliers; do not overtighten. Wipe excess silicone.
Step 4: Position the Base & Install the Compression Gasket
Step 4: Position the Base & Install the Compression GasketPlace the shower base so the vertical pipe centers inside the drain body. Check level; shim or adjust per base instructions.
Insert the soft rubber compression gasket around the pipe, inside the drain. Thread in the compression nut and tighten using the supplied key or a wide flat screwdriver until the gasket compresses evenly. Attach the strainer.
Step 5: Cure and Leak-Test
Allow silicone to cure fully (often 24 hours—follow the label).
Leak test: Insert a test plug, fill the base with a few centimeters of water, and inspect below (or the ceiling underneath) for moisture.
Option 2 — Install a Solvent-Weld (Glued) Shower Drain
Step 1: Dry-Fit and Height Check
Many glued drains want the pipe flush with the subfloor or to a specific height. Dry-fit the upper/lower drain sections and mark the pipe.
Step 2: Cut, Deburr, and Assemble the Drain
Step 2: Cut, Deburr, and Assemble the DrainCut pipe square and deburr fully.
Run a neat bead of silicone under the upper flange and drop the upper drain body through the base. From below, add the rubber gasket and friction washer, then thread on the lower drain body until silicone squeezes evenly. Clean excess.
Step 3: Prime and Glue (Match Materials)
Use the correct primer (if required) and solvent cement for your pipe (PVC or ABS).
Prime the pipe OD and fitting ID. Apply solvent cement to both surfaces, push together with a quarter-turn twist, and hold 30–60 seconds so it doesn’t spring back.
Step 4: Cure and Leak-Test
Respect the manufacturer’s cure time (can range from minutes to many hours depending on temperature/humidity).
Perform the same leak test as above before regular use.
Special Notes for Tiled Showers & Waterproofing
Special Notes for Tiled Showers & WaterproofingIf you’re installing a tiled shower floor with a clamping or bonding-flange drain:
Keep weep holes clear so water in the mortar bed can drain.
Integrate your waterproof membrane (sheet or liquid) exactly per the drain manufacturer’s instructions.
Ensure the horizontal branches maintain proper slope toward the trap and drain to prevent standing water.
Troubleshooting & Pro Tips
Hand-tight plus a touch: With gaskets and lock nuts, overtightening can deform parts and cause leaks later.
Clean edges = better seals: Any burrs or jagged cuts can compromise a compression drain or glued joint.
No mixing materials: Use PVC cement for PVC and ABS cement for ABS only.
Plan for access: If you must service the trap later, an access panel can save you from opening a ceiling.
Quick FAQs
Quick FAQsCan I use a 1½-inch pipe for a shower?
Showers typically require a 2-inch drain for faster flow and to meet code. If converting from a tub (often 1½"), you may need to upsize.
Silicone or plumber’s putty under the flange?
Follow your drain kit instructions. Many modern bases specify 100% silicone for a flexible, durable seal.
How long before I can use the shower?
Wait until silicone and solvent cement are fully cured—often 24 hours. Check the product labels and your ambient conditions.
Do I need to test for leaks?
Yes. Always plug, fill, and inspect before you call the job done. It’s faster than repairing a ceiling later.
Final Checklist (Print This!)
Verified 2-inch shower drain pipe (or planned upsize from 1½").
Drain style chosen: compression (no underside access) or solvent-weld (with access).
Pipe cut square and deburred.
Continuous silicone bead under the drain flange.
Even gasket compression; no cross-threading or overtightening.
Cure times respected for silicone/solvent cement.
Leak test passed before regular use.
Seal It Right, Shower With Confidence
A careful dry-fit, smooth pipe cuts, the right drain style, and patience for proper cure times are the secret to a leak-free shower drain installation.
Save this guide for your next remodel—and enjoy the peace of mind that comes from a job done right.
We hope you enjoy watching this video about How to Install a Drain For Shower
Source: StarrTile
Did you find this post useful or inspiring? Save THIS PIN to your HOME Board on Pinterest! 😊
Once again, thank you for visiting our website!
We hope you've enjoyed exploring the content we've created for you.
Give yourself the chance to learn, get inspired, and have even more fun, keep browsing...
More Home Tips 👇🏼👇🏼